Model: Enicar “Garnix” Chronograph Ref. 2303
Year: 1963
Features:
The History. Enicar is a delightfully Swiss brand, with a compact but colourful history, that has become a cult classic the world over. Founded in 1914, the Enicar brand was created in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the home of watchmaking, by Ariste Racine. His family had been making watches for over 200 years, which is precisely why the brand wasn’t called Racine - his cousin had already trademarked it for his own watch line! It would be Ariste’s wife who came up with an elegant workaround - reversing the family name.
Racine → enicaR
The Progress. Even for Swiss companies, business was difficult between and during the two World Wars, so Enicar didn’t have a chance to shine until the 1950s - but shine it eventually did. It received chronometer certification from the Neuchâtel Observatory, a precursor of sorts to modern COSC certification, and it even strapped itself to the bow of the Mayflower II for 50 days to prove its waterproofing. But its biggest turning point came in 1956, when it accompanied the Swiss climbing team on the first successful ascent of Lhotse and the second successful ascent of Mount Everest.
The Similarity. Which is exactly where Enicar’s famous Sherpa Graph got its name - after the climbing guides, or sherpas, that led Albert Eggler and his team to a successful ascent. The Enicar on offer today is the fancy brother of said Sherpa Graph. Both are chronographs from the same 1960s era, but only one finds itself covered in gold.
The Case. Gold isn’t exactly known for its durability, so it’s safe to say the Garnix wasn’t designed to be a rugged sports watch, but rather a dressy everyday option. Unlike the steel variant, the gold handset offers a hit of visual contrast against the charcoal dial - but the red lollipop seconds hand is still the eye-catching star of the show.
The Name. Beyond its assumed position in your collection as a dressy chronograph, little is known about the creation of the Garnix - in fact, its own name is part of the mystery.
Gar Nichts [German] → Garnix → Translation: Nothing at all
Presumably named because the dial says exactly that. Most Enicar chronographs proudly display their predetermined nickname just below the Enicar logo - Sherpa, Aqua, Jet, Super - but the Garnix is defiantly minimalist. It’s a clean look that has kept it looking fresh for more than six decades.
The Movement. Speaking of longevity, if I pop the hood you’ll immediately understand why so many of these chronographs are still alive and well after all this time. The Valjoux 72. A Swiss icon. Considered by many to have been the best manual-wind chronograph calibre ever produced. You can find it powering the very best sports watches of the 1960s - pieces like some of the original Breitling Navitimers, Rolex Pre-Daytonas, and the first Heuer Carreras - and it still feels incredibly sharp, even when judged against today’s chronos.
The Ending. And like all great watch stories, I can tenuously link it to Seiko. During the years that followed Seiko’s creation of the quartz movement, Enicar, like many Swiss brands, collapsed. I’d argue the company didn’t truly find its feet until 1954, when it received its first chronometer certification. Given that it went into administration exactly 27 years later in 1981, Enicar could be considered an honorary member of the 27 Club. Fitting for a watch brand that burned bright and died young.
Specifications:
Condition: In very good condition overall. Just serviced. The 18k gold bezel is covered in a glorious iridescent patina from the copper alloy aging. Very easy to clean up if desired, but not something I’d recommend as it looks great. General signs of aging and wear across the watch. The dial, and specifically the tritium lume, is in lovely and original shape. Aftermarket strap and buckle.
Scope: No box or papers.
Movement: Valjoux 72 Manual-wind Chronograph
Dimensions:
- Case Width: 37.0mm
- Lug to Lug: 41.0mm
- Case Thickness: 12.0mm
- Lug Width: 18mm
