Model: Seiko “Sodalite” 3820-6000 / 38SQ
Year: July 1973
Features:
The Origin. In the 1970s Seiko released a special catalogue - the Seiko Luxury Collection. Inside, you will find series of watches that ate subtlety for breakfast. Production was kept remarkably low, so even the most seasoned Seiko fans might struggle to recognise many of the pieces. But low production isn’t the only reason these watches are seldom seen today.
The Fate. When the 3820-6000 was released in 1973, the melt value of its solid white-gold case represented around 20% of its retail price. By the early 1980s, that figure had climbed to almost 100%. Add the value of the movement and its rare stone dial, and the sum of its parts exceeded what the watch originally cost. As a result, throughout the ‘80s, a huge amount of gold watches had the indignity of being melted down.
The Cost. It retailed for ¥530,000 in 1973 - a figure that’s meaningless without context - so let me add some. For the same money, you could have bought: (x5) VFA 6185, (x8) Gold Cap 6156, (x28) Pogue 6139, (x17) Panda 6138, or (x30) Willard 6105. Why not get a healthy mix of all five and open a retail shop? You’d certainly have enough stock. But the value of this watch was never meant to be entirely tied to the case - the dial, finishing, and movement each make a compelling argument for being the star of the show.
The Dial. A solid slab of sodalite. It’s similar to lapis lazuli, which makes sense as both are part of the same mineral family - the sodalite group. But it’s a deeper, richer blue than lapis, and it’s also wonderfully reflective. If you’ve ever stood on a frozen lake beneath perfectly clear ice, you’ll recognise the same impressive visual depth. The white indices provide a subtlety that ensures the sodalite is the only thing you focus on.
The Case. Is there anything more spectacular in the world of decorative horology than a hand-hammered, vintage watch case? Up close, it evokes the same awe as turning a watch over to find a beautifully finished movement. The craftsmanship is immediate and visceral. In macro, the hammered flanks of the case look like a rough, wind-tossed sea, contrasting perfectly with the icy calm of the dial - while the top of the bezel itself has a more traditional dimpled finish. Every case is unique, each bearing the unmistakable marks of painstaking human work.
The Movement. It’s often hotly debated which early quartz movements were thermo-compensated. Seiko haven’t come forward in recent years to clarify, so arguments have been made for and against various calibres. However, a 1972 technical journal, written by Horological Society of Japan (page 6), confirms the use of a passive compensating ceramic capacitor in the 38 calibre - making it one of the first thermo-compensated quartz movement.
The Accuracy. At the time, COSC had just started certifying watches with an accuracy of -4 to +6 seconds per day, so it’s easy to understand why a watch offering that level of accuracy per month was an bona fide breakthrough.
The Legacy. And a few years later, the VFA-grade (Very Finely Adjusted) 3820 movement would become the backbone of the Grand Quartz line, which would in-turn kickstart the Grand Seiko relaunch in 1988. Pretty, absolutely - but its historic pedigree runs deep beneath that frozen-blue dial.
Specifications:
Condition: In very good condition overall. The case is unpolished, solid gold - various hairlines and marks can be seen on the flat sides, but the hammered parts look great.
Scope: No box or papers.
Movement: Seiko 3820 Quartz
Dimensions:
- Case Width: 36.5mm
- Lug to lug: 41.5mm
- Case Thickness: 11.3mm
- Lug Width: 18mm
