Model: Vincent Calabrese BD-1 “Baladin” Wandering Hours
Year: 2011
Features:
The History. Wandering hours are so hot right now. Whether it’s the high-end Audemars Piguet Starwheel, the more affordable Xeric Triptych, or the somewhere-in-the-middle Otsuka Lotec No. 5, this 400-year-old complication is enjoying a full-blown renaissance. And if you’re currently weighing up your wandering hour options, you might be interested to know that Vincent Calabrese brought his version to market all the way back in 1988.
The Maker. Vincent Calabrese's rise began in 1977, when he won a Gold Medal at Geneva’s Inventors Fair for his “Linear Movement.” Corum promptly bought the rights and, in 1980, unveiled the now-legendary Golden Bridge featuring his design. He later sold Blancpain the rights to his eight-day flying tourbillon, which they use in some extremely high-end models, and he currently holds 14 watch-related patents. In 2023, he won another Gold Medal in Geneva’s for his hairspring-less escapement.
The Leader. Riding high on his success, Calabrese co-founded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) in 1985 - a sort of pseudo-union for independent watchmakers that allowed members to share ideas, boost visibility, and collaborate freely. Today, there are 40 members and it reads like a hall of fame - including the likes of Georges Daniels, François-Paul Journe, Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen and Hajime Asaoka.
The Complication. Unlike most modern interpretations, Calabrese’s setup hides the complication beneath a mystery dial. Strictly speaking, it’s a jump hour wandering hours system - the hour “hand” snaps forward every 60 minutes with satisfying precision.
The Design. And while the layout may look daunting at first, I would testify under oath that it’s faster to read than a conventional three-hander. One charming detail you might’ve spotted in the video is the use of T, S, N, and M in place of Three, Six, Nine, and Midnight/Midday. Since 6 and 9 are visually identical when upside down, Six and Nine were chosen instead, and I have to assume T and M were used for the sake of quadrant symmetry.
The Name. For anyone curious about the name - a "baladin" is the French word for a wandering entertainer, which is exactly what Vincent Calabrese's watch aims to do. Most AHCI member watches command a hefty premium, but Calabrese’s wandering hours remain one of the more accessible entries into independent horology - and one of the most interesting.
Specifications:
Condition: In great condition. Just serviced. Small hairlines can be seen on close inspection, but there are no marks of any significance.
Scope: No box, but full papers, and on the original strap.
Movement: In-house Vincent Calabrese Automatic
Dimensions:
- Case Width: 36.2mm
- Lug to lug: 43.9mm
- Case Thickness: 9.6mm
