Model: Vincent Calabrese Day & Night with Champagne Dial
Year: Mid '90s
Features:
The Origin. Calabrese is at it again. The Night & Day debuted in 1995 and, like his Wandering Hours, it drew inspiration from 19th-century pocket watches - specifically, the pocket watches used by railway employees. In 1886, for the sake of clarity, the Canadian Pacific Railway adopted the 24-hour clock and other countries slowly started to follow suit.
The History. By the 1920s, most of Europe was running on a 24-hour time, and Swiss watchmakers began splitting dials into 24 segments, rather than the traditional 12. However, this simple solution was seen by some as inelegant and difficult to read, so watchmakers looked for different solutions - and several patents later, the hour switching complication was born. At midnight and midday, the 12 respective hour markers snappily switch to reveal their counterparts hiding underneath. And I mean snappily.
The Complication. The first 12 hours are displayed in Roman Numerals, while the 13-24 hours are displayed in Arabic Numerals. This visual separation was adopted by several railroad pocket watches as it ensured maximum clarity - something your brain could instantly latch onto as an obvious difference between the two sets of 12.
The Design. The quirks don’t stop at the complications. The champagne dial is heavily textured and features a power reserve indicator at six o’clock and a date window at 12 o’clock, but the case is my favourite element. It’s polished all over and the exhibition caseback allows you to peer into the automatic movement’s workings - but I’m all about those lugs. Shell lugs, often seen on mid-century Vacheron Constantin, do a huge amount to frame the watch and cement its vintage stylings. Classic for a reason.
The Man. Calabrese co-founded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) in 1985 - a sort of pseudo-union for independent watchmakers that allowed members to share ideas, boost visibility, and collaborate freely. Today, there are 40 members and it reads like a hall of fame - including the likes of Georges Daniels, François-Paul Journe, Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen and Hajime Asaoka.
Specifications:
Condition: In great condition. Serviced in 2024. No marks of any major significance.
Scope: No box or papers, but on the original strap and with a Calabrese hang tag.
Movement: ETA 2892A2 with in-house Automatic Vincent Calabrese modification
Dimensions:
- Case Width: 35.1mm
- Lug to lug: 41.9mm
- Case Thickness: 9.1mm
- Lug Width: 18mm
